New years in an medieval Italian outpost

It’s New Year’s Eve, sunlight is fading and we’ve just arrived at Domodossola, a quaint little border town, nestled between Switzerland & Italy. And though the town centre itself is charming, our lodgings are squirreled away in a more remote location further in the mountains. To find it, we’ll need a car. So it’s a good thing we know some locals! 

By virtue of relation to my social butterfly cousin, Ana, we meet, Cata who is hosting a New Year’s gathering or, “retreat” as I would more call it, given the number of days we’ll spend here. Though, Cata has never met us before, she welcomes us with a beautiful smile and open arms, before expertly taking charge with a speed walking tour through the old town while we wait for the last person requiring a shuttle from the station.

Soon, we’ve a full party of five tall people which makes for a comical scene as we speed around hairpin curves in a tiny vehicle further compounding the g-force. The jovial conversation and pitch black surrounds creates the impression of being on a theme park ride. I feel young and carefree. A feeling that continues as we pull up to our destination and a happy silhouette waves at us from the top window of a double story house shaped shadow. 

Though it’s dark outside, inside is vibrantly alive! Wine is flowing, preparations underway and all while two dogs play. And, for the “cherry on top”, one of the guests is a chef by trade, cooking the most spectacular pasta for 11 people with ease. Despite the slight delay between each bite caused by food worship, it doesn’t take us long to polish everything off, making way for the next activity. 

After clearing plates, Cata, plonks a board game on the table and begins to explain the rules. It would seem a simple endeavour, except, no matter how many times Cata explains the rules… we can’t start the game without someone interrupting. “But wait, what about if…” says one person, “hang on, that doesn’t make any sense…” says another, “I have a question…” we all continue absurdly for at least half an hour, voices getting louder and more flabbergasted as we go. “Let’s just start” Cata groans for the fifth time… and this time we do start… though not without continued shenanigans. The game engrosses us so much that we almost miss New Years!

With two minutes to spare we run outside with a bottle of champagne and begin a countdown. 3, 2, 1!!! Bang! The fireworks begin. There’s no official city organised celebrations however, as It’s legal to buy your own fireworks here, the horizon is completely covered in self managed magical twinkles. There’s no one else but our little group on our private hill so we have this spectacular view all to ourselves. A wonderful mix of relaxation and festivity.

The next morning, we languidly awake to the sun streaming through the window. We’re surrounded by mattresses and sleeping people laid out like Tetris. An hour passes by… sometimes Narvi the dog stares down at me inquisitively, sometimes he’s fast asleep, other times he’s busy collecting cuddles. Eventually, Jesse & I sneak outside, dodging a few more sleepers. 

For the first time, in daylight we see the amazing stone masonry building we’ve been staying in and its rural environment. Exploring a little further, we find a walking trail with a few woodland shrines dotted along the path.

The next day we find an even more impressive walking trail, flaunting abandoned ruins, friendly donkeys and mysterious churches. Accompanying us on this walk are only the sounds of a low humming tractor, the occasional moo and actual cow bells. In this forgotten corner of Italy, it feels like one big gust of wind might blow everything away and yet, here these dwellings have sat for who knows how long. Thankfully at least long enough for us to come and enjoy them.