The search for a unique Christmas market experience has taken us, on a path less travelled. I’m sure you’ve heard of Berlin right? But have you heard of Köln? Maybe not! Well worth the visit, but not so straight forward. After having spent some time in London and as Aussies, this is our first experience changing countries via train, not plane!
After some light processing we sit comfortably in plush train seats looking out a spacious window. We trace the map, excitedly noting when we’re under the English Channel, when we’re through France, Belgium then Aachen (Germany). At Aachen we discover something that is quite surprising for us but apparently well known to Europeans.
That is: German trains are always late… and sometimes broken. It hardly matters though, the network is so diverse that we’re simply crammed into another train. However, the downside is that now we only have 7 minutes to transfer. Did I mention we’re carrying 10kg backpacks and the transfer is a kilometre away?
Imagine, two idiots with gigantic backpacks running at full speed, through a complicated train station and a sea of dawdlers. A recipe for disaster! And yet, we make it! And I only breath heavily in recovery for a full two stops after we board (just in the nick of time).
In this mindset of exhausted determination we disembark at Köln completely unprepared for what I believe is the most sensational view from a train station possible. Köln Cathedral. The cathedral spikes into the sky, dwarfing everything in its surrounds. Its proximity to the station exit feels like an optical illusion. Unmissable. And as if its impressive scale wasn’t enough, every square inch varies with intricate detail.
Taking in the splendour, we decide seeing isn’t enough! We need to climb it too. The next morning we beeline to the Cathedral, making sure we’re the first up the steps. We were rather proud of ourselves! However as I clamber up the disorientingly steep spiral I wonder if perhaps, I’ve actually paid 25 euro to be tortured! In further support of this hypothesis, I note that we have the place to ourselves save for a few pigeons.
All the whining fads away however, as we pass the final hurdle, finally seeing Köln in all its morning glory from the cathedral spire. And making our way back down, we discover there were even more treasures hidden away in the cathedral vault.
You might have guessed it! By this point, our hungry tummies loudly beg us to check out the famed Christmas markets and snag ourselves a German sausage. With the sun still shining we have ample opportunity to take in all the artistic flair for which Köln Christmas Markets are known. Utop the Heinzels Wintermärchen stalls, an assortment of gnomes can be found cheerily distributing gifts and drinking mulled wine. In festive comradery, we join the gnomes with a warm drink of our own, toasting to a wonderful day and the sparkly evening ahead.
Further into the night, we make a German friend who excitedly practices his English with us. A tall older gentleman wearing a stylish long black overcoat, who might have looked quite distinguished if not for the fact he was inebriated. In addition, we noticed his movements were largely directed by his tiny fluffy white dog named “Fenuchi”. A dog prone to disobediently darting about. In between our conversation, this man was repeatedly tangled in Fenuchi’s lead, punctuating every other sentence with “No, Fenuchi, No!” A phrase that Jesse and I repeat many times throughout the night with jovial fondness.
Drifting from one stall to the next I thought about this blog and how on earth I might share this experience. I decided then, that no matter how many photos I took, none could capture the immersive and magical essence of the Christmas markets. You just have to be there, to taste the juicy treats, to hear the live music and laughs, to see the lights twinkle and the crowds sway in a hypnotic happy daze, to feel the cold on your nose disappear, as the steam from your hot chocolate rises up from the boot shaped mug in your hands.
8 Responses
Looks like your having the time of your lives! Pictures are amazing and the humour plot twists are fantastic 😍
We definitely are! ❤️ hehe! It’s fun to show the realities of travels beyond just the pretty pictures.
So this is Christmas 🎄 xox how wonderful to see xox Amazing !
It was certainly Christmas! I’ve never felt so Christmasy in my life 🥰🤣
Looks amazing Beth.. I can almost taste the hot chocolate!!!!!
Ahaha! Yes! I wanted to share that with everyone. So wonderful 🥰
Truly awe inspiring … my guess all the trepidation you felt before you left has dissipated ( isn’t life a grand experience… if only there was peace on earth & goodwill prevailed). Love your blog
Absolutely right! I’m so glad I’ve done this. I get it now haha. Trepidation gone!!